Showing posts with label Spanish Civil War. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spanish Civil War. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 4, 2020

Nerja Museum, Museo de Nerja

Nerja Museum: Some Things I Didn’t Know; Some Things They Didn’t Tell Me


The town of Nerja on Spain’s Costa del Sol has a modern, well thought out museum. It stands fairly inconspicuously in, and partly under, one corner of the vast Plaza de Espana, a forlorn development of mainly empty buildings set round a paved open space that is largely deserted except for fairs at fiesta time.

Friday, May 19, 2017

Bunuel on the Spanish Civil War

An Anarchist Artist’s Disillusion with Spanish Anarchism in the Civil War – Luis Buñuel 

George Orwell was an Old Etonian socialist (rare but not unique) who, when the Spanish Civil War broke out, went to Barcelona and found his way into service with a Trotskyist militia, POUM.  His account of his experiences, Homage to Catalonia, is a deserved classic. His story includes the civil-war-within-the civil war, the clash in Barcelona between the Trotskyists and Anarchists and the Communist backed Republican authorities. Orwell was on the side of the former, although he himself later admitted that he had an unsure grasp of the “bigger picture”. Paul Preston, the most distinguished living historian of the Civil War (probably in any language), recently wrote a sympathetic but firm critique of Orwell’s account in The Guardian. Preston explains that the beleaguered Republic had no friends in West (the US, Britain and France sat on their hands at best); Franco had militarised Germany and Italy as active allies, lending troops and airpower. The only state supporting the Republic was the Soviet Union.


The Republic needed arms and discipline to fight the war. The Soviets provide the former, and a nasty bit of the latter; and the anarchists did their best to subvert the latter, many elements holding that the creation of new revolutionary social, political and industrial structures was more important, or just as important, than fighting Franco.

During this vicious ideological dispute, Anarchist militias left the front line to confront the government in Barcelona. The government was left with little choice but to take the Anarchists on. Preston suggests that this was the correct option at the time, however unsavoury some of the implications of Soviet support proved (the importation of Soviet secret service death squads being one).

Preston’s article freshly read, it is indeed very interesting to read an extract of Luis Bunuel’s memoirs of the War (My Last Breath, anthologised in No Pasaran, published by Serpent’s Tail 2016).

Bunuel is best known as the leading surrealist film maker of the 1920s and 30s, although he also enjoyed a long and distinguished career in exile (mostly in Mexico) after Franco came to power. (I’ve sworn never again to watch his Chien Andalou, because of the scene where a cloud sliding across the moon suddenly turns into a razor slicing an eye.)

Bunuel’s narrative (published in 1983, and perhaps benefiting much from the hindsight of years) gives a very clear exposition of the tensions and divisions on the Republican side that Preston claims Orwell didn’t grasp.

When the Francoist rebellion broke out in the Summer of 1936, Bunuel was living in Madrid.

He describes the murderous activities of anarchist extremists in the early months: “the mere presence of a religious icon in someone’s room led automatically to Casa Campo, the public park on the outskirts of the city where the executions took place”.

Bunuel was left wing and, as a surrealist, something of an anarchist at heart. But he writes: “I nonetheless couldn’t stomach the summary executions, the looting, the criminal acts. No sooner had the people risen and seized power than they split into factions and began tearing on another to pieces. This insane and indiscriminate settling of accounts made everyone forget the essential reasons for the war”.

Bunuel puts his finger on the point Preston seeks to make about Orwell:  The main goal of both Communists and Socialists was to win the war, while the anarchists, on the other hand, considered the war already won and had begun to organise their ideal society”.

And: “Fascist repression was pitiless: anyone suspected of liberal tendencies was summarily executed. But instead of trying to form an organisation, we debated – while the anarchists persecuted priests”.

Bunuel writes movingly of Garcia Lorca, one of his closest friends, who was murdered by the Francoists in Granada in august 1936.  Lorca was also in Madrid in the early days of the war. As Franco’s troops approached Madrid (where they were to encounter years of stalemate), Lorca decided to leave for Granada, his native city, tense and frightened.

“Lorca died because he was a poet. ‘Death to the intelligentsia ‘ was a favourite wartime slogan….Frederico was terrified of death and suffering. I can imagine what he must have felt, in the middle of the night in a truck that was taking him to an olive grove to be shot.”

“Federico was the finest. I don’t mean his plays or poetry; I mean him personally. He was his own masterpiece….He transformed me, introduced me to a wholly different world [of poetry and music]. He was like a flame.”

Bunuel offers two epitaphs on the Spanish Civil War. One is the brutal and lapidary:

God and Country are an unbeatable team: they break all records for oppression, and bloodshed.”

The other is more nuanced, almost to the point of lameness:

“[Franco] wasn’t the devil personified… even in Franco’s case there’s room for some ambiguity…..I tell myself that all the wealth and culture on the Falangist side ought to have limited the horror. Yet the worst excesses came from them; which is why… I have my doubts about the benefits of money and culture.”

One may ask, since when in history has wealth and culture ever been incompatible with cruelty and indifference to suffering?


May 2017

Saturday, December 17, 2016

Spanish Renaissance Towns near Granada

A Little Tour round Spanish Renaissance Towns


Duende, according to the Spanish poet Garcia Lorca, is the mysterious, almost violent, force that animates the best of artistic performance, especially flamenco:

“Dark sounds….a mysterious force that everyone feels  and no philosopher has explained… the duende surges up, inside, from the soles of the feet.”

Friday, July 15, 2016

With God on Whose Side..

With God on Whose Side..

I receive various departmental alumni publications from my undergraduate university – even from a department for a subject I never studied academically. The material includes interesting and easily digested articles by faculty members – essentially versions of their “proper” academic work, gutted of the dense scholarship (mostly) and currently prevailing subject jargon (mostly).

Saturday, June 11, 2016

Is Ronda "neat"? Cadiz, the Old City

Ronda- a far from “neat” history; Cadiz- a bit like Venice; but then not

“It’s a neat town”, said a member of an American tour party sitting nearby. “Neat”, applied to Ronda, probably translates as “dramatic, well-preserved, easily navigated on foot, and with good facilities for visitors”.  All true. But to an English ear, “neat” also suggests “tidy” or even “tame”. Applied to Ronda’s recent history, very much untrue.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Nerja and Frigiliana - Moors, Civil War and the Costa (April 2015)

 NERJA AND FRIGLIANA – MOORS, CIVIL WAR AND THE  “COSTA”




When someone offers the opinion that a particular Spanish town on the South coast (Costa del Sol) is “unspoilt”, there must always be implied the qualification “relatively”. The next question is, “relative to what?”. Large swathes of that coastline are hideous.

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

NERJA FEBRUARY 1937

NERJA: FEBRUARY 1937



On 9th February 1937, Italian troops, leading the Nationalist forces approaching from Malaga, entered Nerja, their motorcycle outriders roaring down the Calle Pintada. Thus ended the local manifestation of the Republic, for Nerja had been a Republican-held town until that day.

It seems that Nerja was one of countless towns and villages across Spain where similar events unfolded from the outset of the Nationalist uprising in July 1936. There was a leftwing backlash against people perceived to be Nationalists or their sympathisers-  especially clerics, landowners and professionals. In Nerja, a truck-load of anarchist militiamen from Malaga came over to help matters along – several alleged right-wingers, including the local priest (whose church had been ransacked), were taken to the Rio Seco to the west of Playazo beach, and shot.

The communist mayor of Nerja, elected in August 1936, tried to calm these inflamed and murderous tendencies. But sporadic assassinations continued.

When Malaga fell in early February (the subject of an earlier post on this site), the retreating Republican troops temporarily established their headquarters in Nerja (for a matter of days). This brought air attacks – machine guns and bombs, including at the junction of Calles Pintada and Carabeo.

Republican forces and much of local population, turned refugees, were soon in full flight along the coast road (N 340) towards Almeria. This exodus, which started from Malaga and gathered people as it went, is notorious for the pitiless and indiscriminate bombing, machine-gunning and naval shelling of the wretched columns.

One objective of the Nationalists was the destruction of bridges along the road, to slow the Republican retreat. One such bridge was (and still is) the one in the barranco gorge between Nerja and Maro, a couple of kilometers or so to the east. The task of destroying it was given to Nationalist naval forces. They couldn’t see the bridge, as it is built well down below the lip of the gorge. What they could see was the high, proud and elaborate profile of the Aquila Aqueduct further up the gorge. This C19 construction, built in classical style (and still aqueducting today) the Nationalist warships mistook for the road bridge, and their shells were aimed accordingly. Thus the fleeing Republicans and refugees were granted precious time to cross the actual bridge. (The nationalists realised their mistake at last when water was observed to be pouring out of the damaged aqueduct.)

Taken by the Nationalist, Nerja endured the usual bloody purges of leftists and liberals. The cinema was the place for summary trials; the cemetery the place for summary and quasi-judicial executions.

The aforementioned communist mayor of Nerja somehow escaped death. Two lengthy spells of imprisonment sandwiched time spent as a guerrilla in the Sierra. He outlived Franco.


This narrative is taken from a Spanish book, “100 Anos  de Nerja en Fotos”  by a local historian, Pablo Rojo Platero. What he writes rings true and is consistent with the overall history of the Civil War in the Malaga area.

The fact that Nerja was in Republican control until February 1937 unfortunately casts doubt Laurie Lee’s account of the War as witnessed by him in Almunecar, just up the coast to the east of Nerja ( the final pages of“As I walked Out One Midsummer’s Morning”). There can have been no clashes with “Nationalist militias” occupying Nerja in the autumn of 1936. There can have been no mistaken bombardment of Almunecar by Republican warships trying to strike Nerja.


April 2015